Sunday, October 20, 2013

The struggles of being a single female in Doha

Being a woman is tough. In and of itself. I don't think this needs much explanation, and to anybody confused by this statement: why are you even reading my blog? Seriously...

Being a woman in Doha is even more difficult. In a country where the sex ratio is 2.00 males/females (and 2.47 males/females in the 15-64 age range), you can actually feel your own presence as a woman wherever you go. What do I mean by this? I mean that in a strictly numeric sense, women stick out in this country. Seeing a woman is not as common as seeing a man, and therefore it's often a noticeable event. In a country where the vast majority of foreign workers are males (think: construction industry, drivers, manual labor, etc.) who have left behind their families and often their wives so that they can make a living, it's sometimes painfully annoying to be a woman.

For example, when I leave the house, I know I'm going to be stared at. Let me also clarify, that it doesn't matter what I'm wearing. I could be dressed like a stereotypical American, a vanilla hijabi, or be wearing a big black abaya and I will be stared at no matter what. I repeat, it does not matter what clothing I choose to wear, the staring is constant. I'm not just talking about being stared at by the hordes of male students who gather to smoke at the door right by office, I'm talking about standing in the grocery store trying to decide which pasta sauce to buy, only to look over and realize some guy on the other end of the aisle is undressing you with his eyes. I'm talking about going to a fully professional foreign policy event at a notable think tank and getting eye-f****d by the guy across the hall. I'm not trying to channel "damsel in distress" here, I've seen and heard this happen to every single one of my female friends as well, Qatari and non-Qatari.

When I first came to Doha I thought it odd how many of the Qatari women were closeted, and not that enthusiastic about going out in public or public events. While I initially thought it was exemplary of what so many in the west choose to call the "subjugation of women" in the region (ie suppressing their presence in public life) I now totally get it. I've been here only a little over a year, and already I'm starting to get fed up and frustrated with the way that women are devoured and coveted by the male population here. I'd so much rather stay home so much of the time.

To be clear, and also to dispel the myth of the sex-crazed Qatari male chasing after western women, I have personally been stared at, harassed, hit on, followed, tailgated and flirted/hollered at by every nationality under the sun. From Indians to Qataris, Egyptians, Khaleejis, Africans and even other westerners. The only commonality amongst these guys is simply that: they are all men.

I've been able to handle and deal with this as most women here are forced to do, but there are always those certain events that really put things into perspective. This past week the biggest story in the Doha scene is that of Lauren Patterson: a 24-year-old British primary school teacher living in Doha who was murdered (allegedly by two Qatari males, though this remains unconfirmed), and whose body was burned beyond recognition out in the desert. This is unprecedented in Doha, though the event does come about a year after another European female teacher was murdered by a (Kenyan) security guard. Of course, these things don't happen often in Qatar. These events are so rare here, and really we are lucky to live in a country that is, for the most part, incredibly safe.

This said, it really shakes me a bit to hear the story of Lauren. I can guarantee that every single female expat in Doha (and even the married ones when away from their husbands) has felt what I have talked about previously. I myself have had a handful of times where I've actually felt genuinely nervous or scared because of the approaches, actions, or words of a male (whether a friend, acquaintance, or some random guy in the grocery store). What I'm trying to say is that while the case of Lauren Patterson is obviously an extreme act committed by some seriously MESSED up guys, but it is also symptomatic of the gender dynamic in Qatar. We females are always on guard, and hearing stories like this just makes us even more nervous, and raise our guard just a little bit more.

I honestly can't think of a proper solution for this problem off the top of my head. My only recommendation would be for the government to possibly make it easier for expatriates to bring their families and/or wives (but of course, then here you run into the problem that the government doesn't actually WANT to encourage family life/settlement here). Really, the gender ratio should be more equal, and the half-assed segregation of so many places should really stop. I see this all the time at Qatar University: half-assed gender segregation gone wrong. It's one thing to have an area be strictly male, or for it to be fully integrated. But having a male area that is open to females should they want/need to go there makes the presence of any female in said area a noteworthy (hint: stare-worthy) event.

How do you males think this makes us feel? Yes, in your mind you can't miss the opportunity to hit on this female creature that has just crossed your path; while in our minds, you're just the 15th guy to whistle, "tss tss", or holler at us on our way to work. Seriously. Just stop. STOP.

This isn't to say that I feel unsafe in Doha at all. Far from it. Doha is one of the safest places I've ever been in, for sure. But if left unchecked, this sex ratio imbalance and the annoyance it breeds amongst resident and local females will continue to rise and threaten the general livelihood of women in Qatar. To be sure, it is the state of society and NOT a government policy of "repressing women"that is to blame here.

The best solution is with you, men! Simply: STOP STARING! Walk on by! Don't harass us at every traffic light! Don't follow us home! Don't stalk us in the grocery store! Don't softly whistle or "tss tss" us as we walk by! For serious, people! Just leave us be on our daily business. We are exactly like you, save some of our anatomy.

Ok, that's all for now. Apologies if it was super "rant-ish" but I just had to get it out of my system...

Peace & love always <3

Wednesday, October 9, 2013

Doha: As seen from above

"Sí, soy joven, no soy bruta
Con veintiuno, tú no me asustas
Vivo en un mundo donde se juzga
Por la malicia y no se te educas
Pero está bien, está bien
Estás diciendo lo que no es
Hablando y no tienes ni cien
Ya no creo lo que dicen" 
- Kat Dahlia



Doha can and will sweep you up. Doha will swallow you; chew you up and digest you.

This is a city of luxury, of five star hotels built on the backs of slaves; run and maintained by the world's hopeful. Doha is a playground for the wealthy, and a feast for the aspirant and hopeful. And this city, Doha, has been good to me. In some ways I showed up here more like the low-income workers coming to Doha for the first time on planes flying West, not coming from it. I didn't know a soul, save a few hand-me-down contacts. I don't want to rehash my journey and my story, since many of you who've stayed with this strange blog throughout my random disappearances will know plenty about my first few months in the Gulf.

To say the least, my first year in Doha was a rags to finer rags journey (I wouldn't say riches, this place gives you a whole new appreciation for the meaning of that word). I went from a wide-eyed, naive, and expectant convert into the wide world and managed to make my way. I fought to stay on, I took chances (some I shouldn't have), and emerged all the better for it.

It's a strange thing to watch others go through an experience that you too have undertaken. This year, as is the norm at institutions around the world, we witnessed a surge in new students at Qatar University, and a huge increase in the number of students entering the Gulf Studies program in their first year. I'm watching all of these people, some of them Americans like myself, and often times I can't help but compare their experiences to mine. Sometimes there are some seriously green feelings of jealousy, but mostly it's just fascination, curiosity, and often empathy.

Not only am I getting to know these new recruits, I've met a whole cohort of new people outside of my professional contacts that are new to me, some new to this strange place as well. People real and raw, qualities so hard to come by in this place. People who see the holes, and blow smoke through them.

Sometimes it gets hard for me to watch people get swept up in the craziness that is Doha City. I watch people throw away dollars on the pettiest material products; people that six months ago were complaining about debt, the unfairness of the system, and seeing eye-to-eye with their common man. So much changes when these tax-free salaries start flowing in. I see people get swept up in the flashy lifestyle of it all, finding equilibrium in the diversions and entertainment so promoted by this crazy Gulfish capitalism. Sometimes it's hard, but I see it all.

I have to remember that I too was once swept up in this ride. A look back at my older blog posts are some serious evidence. I was swept up in the Doha tide, for sure. How, then, can I manage to look at this now from such a reserved station, you may ask? The answer is in the fact that up until a few weeks ago when she took a new job (way to go MOM!!), I was making equal sums with my mom at my job in Doha - which also stopped paying me for 3 months during the summer. The answer is with my grandma, that moved half way around the world from South Africa to come and live with my mom, dad, and brother in Colorado - the only part of her family willing to take her in and love her fully and without reserve, no matter the cost this would add to the one income (my father's, off "slaying dragons" as he puts it) supporting 5 people (2 college students, and 3 dogs).

I don't want to turn this into a pity party. That isn't what my point is about. I'm only trying to paint a big picture to tell you that when I went back to Colorado over the summer, I had to leave the Doha lifestyle behind. I went from talking about the Syria crisis with diplomats and academics, to trying to explain to middle aged housewives that Syria didn't share a border with Iran. It was a tough adjustment to make.

I traveled (tons) this summer, as always seems to be the case with me. I ran all around Colorado, spending night after night in the back of a Chevy Suburban, camping in a different spot every night. I flew to the UK for a fancy-pants conference, and then found some of the dopest crew in London to kick-it with afterwards. I came back to Colorado and was often forced to things people in the Gulf would balk at so that I could scrape up enough cash to buy some pre-departure provisions (not to mention the headache of trying to find enough cash in one place to buy plane tickets). Don't think I'm full of just complaints, I cherish my time in Colorado often more than anything I do here in Qatar. All I'm trying to say, is that over the summer I lived an incredibly different life than my Doha existence, for better or for worse.

This split with my Doha reality has caused me to see things here in a whole new light. I'm still as embedded in the Doha-life as I ever was (more so the case when I'll finally have wheels next week), and yet I feel myself divorcing and removing myself from those things that cause me grief, things I may never have minded (or things I aspired to) last year. I am changed, I cannot avoid it.

I embrace this change, and I know that I am a stronger, and a better person for what I have seen, experienced, conquered, and been submitted to. I am harder, true, but it's a crazy world out there, and we all need a hard shell for protection. More so than this, my outlook has changed. The lens through which I see the world is clearer than ever, and all too often it feels as if I see things about people that they themselves do not yet see. Either that, or I've gone bat-shit crazy.

I'm excited to see what this new time ahead of me will bring. I just hope that I can manage to keep a cool head, and to travel a little bit more.

Peace and love always <3