"Sí, soy joven, no soy bruta
Con veintiuno, tú no me asustas
Vivo en un mundo donde se juzga
Por la malicia y no se te educas
Pero está bien, está bien
Estás diciendo lo que no es
Hablando y no tienes ni cien
Ya no creo lo que dicen"
- Kat Dahlia
Doha can and will sweep you up. Doha will swallow you; chew you up and digest you.
This is a city of luxury, of five star hotels built on the backs of slaves; run and maintained by the world's hopeful. Doha is a playground for the wealthy, and a feast for the aspirant and hopeful. And this city, Doha, has been good to me. In some ways I showed up here more like the low-income workers coming to Doha for the first time on planes flying West, not coming from it. I didn't know a soul, save a few hand-me-down contacts. I don't want to rehash my journey and my story, since many of you who've stayed with this strange blog throughout my random disappearances will know plenty about my first few months in the Gulf.
To say the least, my first year in Doha was a rags to finer rags journey (I wouldn't say riches, this place gives you a whole new appreciation for the meaning of that word). I went from a wide-eyed, naive, and expectant convert into the wide world and managed to make my way. I fought to stay on, I took chances (some I shouldn't have), and emerged all the better for it.
It's a strange thing to watch others go through an experience that you too have undertaken. This year, as is the norm at institutions around the world, we witnessed a surge in new students at Qatar University, and a huge increase in the number of students entering the Gulf Studies program in their first year. I'm watching all of these people, some of them Americans like myself, and often times I can't help but compare their experiences to mine. Sometimes there are some seriously green feelings of jealousy, but mostly it's just fascination, curiosity, and often empathy.
Not only am I getting to know these new recruits, I've met a whole cohort of new people outside of my professional contacts that are new to me, some new to this strange place as well. People real and raw, qualities so hard to come by in this place. People who see the holes, and blow smoke through them.
Sometimes it gets hard for me to watch people get swept up in the craziness that is Doha City. I watch people throw away dollars on the pettiest material products; people that six months ago were complaining about debt, the unfairness of the system, and seeing eye-to-eye with their common man. So much changes when these tax-free salaries start flowing in. I see people get swept up in the flashy lifestyle of it all, finding equilibrium in the diversions and entertainment so promoted by this crazy Gulfish capitalism. Sometimes it's hard, but I see it all.
I have to remember that I too was once swept up in this ride. A look back at my older blog posts are some serious evidence. I was swept up in the Doha tide, for sure. How, then, can I manage to look at this now from such a reserved station, you may ask? The answer is in the fact that up until a few weeks ago when she took a new job (way to go MOM!!), I was making equal sums with my mom at my job in Doha - which also stopped paying me for 3 months during the summer. The answer is with my grandma, that moved half way around the world from South Africa to come and live with my mom, dad, and brother in Colorado - the only part of her family willing to take her in and love her fully and without reserve, no matter the cost this would add to the one income (my father's, off "slaying dragons" as he puts it) supporting 5 people (2 college students, and 3 dogs).
I don't want to turn this into a pity party. That isn't what my point is about. I'm only trying to paint a big picture to tell you that when I went back to Colorado over the summer, I had to leave the Doha lifestyle behind. I went from talking about the Syria crisis with diplomats and academics, to trying to explain to middle aged housewives that Syria didn't share a border with Iran. It was a tough adjustment to make.
I traveled (tons) this summer, as always seems to be the case with me. I ran all around Colorado, spending night after night in the back of a Chevy Suburban, camping in a different spot every night. I flew to the UK for a fancy-pants conference, and then found some of the dopest crew in London to kick-it with afterwards. I came back to Colorado and was often forced to things people in the Gulf would balk at so that I could scrape up enough cash to buy some pre-departure provisions (not to mention the headache of trying to find enough cash in one place to buy plane tickets). Don't think I'm full of just complaints, I cherish my time in Colorado often more than anything I do here in Qatar. All I'm trying to say, is that over the summer I lived an incredibly different life than my Doha existence, for better or for worse.
This split with my Doha reality has caused me to see things here in a whole new light. I'm still as embedded in the Doha-life as I ever was (more so the case when I'll finally have wheels next week), and yet I feel myself divorcing and removing myself from those things that cause me grief, things I may never have minded (or things I aspired to) last year. I am changed, I cannot avoid it.
I embrace this change, and I know that I am a stronger, and a better person for what I have seen, experienced, conquered, and been submitted to. I am harder, true, but it's a crazy world out there, and we all need a hard shell for protection. More so than this, my outlook has changed. The lens through which I see the world is clearer than ever, and all too often it feels as if I see things about people that they themselves do not yet see. Either that, or I've gone bat-shit crazy.
I'm excited to see what this new time ahead of me will bring. I just hope that I can manage to keep a cool head, and to travel a little bit more.
Peace and love always <3